Cloves should be placed in a furrow with the pointed side up and the flat end down, the tips should be about 2 inches beneath the surface. Space the cloves 6 to 8 inches apart.
A healthy layer of mulch such as straw or dried grass clippings and leaves is advisable. Shoots should begin to appear in 4 to 8 weeks, depending on conditions and cultivar. Growth will cease during the winter months and resume again come spring. Leave the mulch in place well into the spring to conserves moisture and suppress weeds. Garlic is ill equipped to compete with weeds.
Start foliar-feeding your garlic every two weeks as soon as the leaves start growing in early spring and continue for about 3 weeks [Foliar feeding is a technique of feeding plants by applying liquid fertilizer directly to leaves. Garlic is able to absorb essential elements directly through the leaves]. A mixture of a teaspoon each of seaweed mix, and Fish emulsion diluted in a gallon of water works superbly. Garlic requires adequate nitrogen levels . Fertilize accordingly.
Garlic doesn't have many pest problems in the garden , its actually a natural pest repellent. Diseases that plague garlic are generally limited to fungal, such as white Rot. Some pests that bother onions will also attack garlic but not as frequently, and the vampires will also be repelled.
Harvest and Storage
When more than half the leaves have turned yellow-brown, in mid summer, your garlic should be ready for harvest. Carefully dig around each bulb carefully so as not to break the stalk from the bulb, which has been known to cause it to rot. Once harvested, keep it out of the sun . Hang the bulbs up to cure for up to six weeks in a shaded, dry, and well ventilated area. You can also braid it - See Braiding GarlicOnce the garlic is thoroughly dried, trim the roots, try not to knock off the outer skin. Cut the stalks to about 1½ inches above the bulb. If you're going to plant garlic again next year you may want to save the biggest and best-formed bulbs to replant.
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