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Growing
Strawberries
Home Grown
Strawberries
luv2garden.com
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Planting
Strawberries
Basic Care and
Cultivation
Watering
Strawberry plants
Fertilizer for Strawberry
plants
Varieties of
Strawberries
Pests
Common to
Strawberries
Disease Common to
Strawberry plants
Post Harvest Renovation
Winter
Protection
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No garden is
complete without Strawberries. One of
Americas favorite "fruits". The care and
cultivation of Strawberry plants requires
some care and planning, but if you weren't
fascinated by Gardening like I am , you
wouldn't be reading this.
Planting Strawberries
Setting the Plants
Strawberries should be planted in
the early spring as soon as the soil is workable.
Choose a cool location if storage is necessary
before they are planted, keep the roots moist, but
not soggy, and out of direct sunlight and . If
possible, plant on a cool, cloudy day to reduce the
stress on the transplants.
When Planting, be sure
the crown is above soil level and the topmost roots are 1/4
inch beneath soil level
Buried crowns rot / Exposed
roots dry out. Use mulch to keep berries
clean, conserve moisture and keep weed growth down.
Strawberries do best in
drained fairly rich soil, so be sure to add compost or other
organic matter when preparing the strawberry patch.
There as four basic systems
for growing strawberries
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Hill System
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Matted Row
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Ground Cover
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Raised Beds
The Hill system
The Hill system
is used for day neutral or ever bearing cultivars and
works well in raised beds. Rows should be aprox. 8-10
inches high and 23-26 inches wide. (Starter plants are
planted only 12 inches apart), Staggered double rows are
preferable. Leave an isle between the rows about 2 feet
wide. The plant's energy is put toward producing berries
rather than producing an abundance of plants as in the
matted row system. Runners are removed
and berries are harvested the first season.
The hill system works well in warm
climates where strawberries can be planted in the fall.
The plants can be treated as annuals, replacing them
every fall for best results.
If not treating them as
annuals, keep in mind that the Plants
productivity wanes over time, they should be replaced
every 1-3 years.
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The matted row system
The matted row system
is the least time consuming as far as maintenance is
concerned.
You'll need an area
aprox. 8-10 feet wide and 30 feet long to accommodate 30
plants. This system works best with June bearing
strawberries.
In the spring, plant
the Starter (or Mother) plants 2 feet apart in rows 3-4
feet apart and allow them to produce and set runner
plants unobstructed.
The first year all the
plant's energy is devoted to producing and developing
strong plants ,all flowers must be
picked off, and fruit is not harvested until the second
season.
Keep rows to a width of
approximately 18 inches. You may have to cut back
runners that grow between the rows.
Strawberries as a
groundcover
space the
starter plants 1 to 2 feet apart.
Weed well , and after
the first season maintenance should be minimal.
Strawberries grown as
a groundcover will not produce as much fruit. In all
cases, the soil
should be well tilled and fertilized a
week before planting.
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Raised Beds
Some gardeners find that raised beds are easier to
maintain and promote more vigorous plant growth. Walking in a garden
causes soil compaction, which can cause problems with drainage
and
oxygen availability to the roots. It's also more difficult to weed
when soil is compacted.
With a raised bed, you can plant, weed and
harvest without ever walking on the soil. You can also avoid
drainage problems by planting in raised beds. The soil also warms up
faster in the spring than in a traditional garden. The
growing season can also be started earlier.
Basic Care of Strawberries
Firm the
surrounding soil and water thoroughly.
Prune damaged roots
Trim excessively long roots to aprox. 5
inches
Regularly hoe between rows and individual plants.
Remove runners and old leaves.
Most strawberries produce offsets at the end of runners. If you want
more plants, just let them grow. If you have enough strawberry plants,
pinching off the runners will give you larger plants with small yields
of big berries.
Remove the flower stalks of
June-bearing strawberry plants as they appear throughout the first
growing season. More production can be expected if the plants are
allowed to attain large size before fruiting. Remove the blossoms of
day-neutral types of plants as they appear until about the middle of
June in the first year of planting only.. Then allow flowers to set
fruit for the duration of the season.
Watering / Irrigation
June-bearing strawberries that have been renovated
after this year's harvest should be watered weekly during dry
weather. Watering aids the recovery of the renovated planting and
helps ensure optimal production next season. (The flower buds on
June- bearing strawberries develop in late summer and fall. These
flower buds will bloom the following spring.) If the strawberry
planting is not properly watered, dry weather in late summer and
fall could drastically reduce flower bud formation and next year's
crop.
Everbearing and day-neutral strawberries must be watered during dry
periods to maintain good fruit production.
Always soak the soil thoroughly when
watering. this helps to promote good root development, but not
excessively ..so as to avoid rot. Inexpensive
Water timer systems are
available.
Fertilizer
recommendations for Strawberries
The recommendations below
are generalized and should be adjusted to the fertility,
nutrient holding ability of your soil, and your observations
of the plant growth. An application of
Miracle-Gro
as they are
attempting to get established is recommended.
June bearing The soil should have been fertilized before planting as
recommended ..if not, apply 1/3 cup 13-13-13 per 25 feet of
row two weeks after planting. Repeat in late August 1/3 cup 13-13-13 per 25 feet of row at renovation (after
harvest) and again in late August
Ever bearing 2 weeks after planting apply 1/3 cup 13-13-13 per 25 feet of
row if soil was not fertilized before planting. Repeat twice
in the growing season. Fertilize with 1/3 to 1/2 cup 13-13-13 per 25 feet of row
three times per year. In containers, it may be easier to use
a weekly soluble fertilizer or a slow release fertilizer
according to label directions. See Also
Soil
pH, and adjust accordingly
Best
Varieties of
Strawberries for Home Growers
The following are my personal favorites, you of course may prefer to scan
any of the many online
nurseries and seed catalogs.

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Hanging Strawberries
Developed by University of
California these year round berries cascade
forth in masses of snow white flowers and sweet
berries all year long. The more you pick, the
more grow to take their place. Easy to grow -
practically a care-free Indoor Strawberry Garden
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June Bearing
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Ever Bearing & Day Neutral
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June Bearing Strawberries produce one crop per
year in late spring or early summer. It's best used for
preserving. June-bearing
strawberries are most productive when grown in 2-foot-wide
matted rows. Some June-bearing strawberries are extremely
vigorous, producing runners beyond the 2-foot-wide matted
row. These runners should be placed back within the 2-foot
row or trimmed back to prevent the field from becoming a
solid matted jungle.
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Everbearing Strawberries
tends to peak in
early summer and continue on through the fall. This is the type
to plant if you want fresh berries all season long. They
are highly productive and have very flavorful berries.
Day-neutral plants have three peaks of production each year.
Early Summer, Mid Summer and Early Autumn. There are limited
varieties.
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Allstar - Junebearer
Allstar June-bearing strawberry
produces large, firm fruit late-to mid-season. Performs well
in almost any condition. |
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Everbearing Picnic Strawberry
Medium-sized fruits on bushy, compact plants
with few short runners. For baskets, tubs, ground cover or
edging. Grows as Annual or Perennial.
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Earliglow Strawberry
Claims to be the "heavyweight Champ of the strawberry
world" They are very big and Juicy, but my personal
experience states they are not as tasty as some other
varieties. Yes they're good - I still grow them - but
for sweetness the smaller varieties are better
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Alpine Strawberry
sweet and tangy with a wild aroma. It will
fruit right through the summer and early autumn and can be
producing strawberries about ten weeks from an early sowing.
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Park's June-Bearing Strawberry Collection
Park Seed is offering a sampler collection of June
bearing Strawberries. I've had much success with their
seeds and seedlings in the past. |
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Ozark - Everbearer
fares best in Southern regions. Tolerates temperatures over
100 degrees without loss of fruit quality. Large berries are
exceptionally flavorful.
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Seed & Nursery
Catalogs |
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Renovation
Renovation is an important part of strawberry
care. In order to insure substantial and quality berry production,
June-bearing strawberries grown in the matted row system should be
renovated every year right after harvest.
A strawberry patch will continue to be productive
for three to four years as long as the planting is maintained. The
first step in the renovation process is to mow the old foliage with
a mower, cutting off the leaves about one inch above the crowns.
Rake and remove the leaves, if not diseased, compost them or
dig them into the soil. Fertilize, Remove all weeds. Thin the plants
in the narrowed row to 4 to 6 inches between plants.
Winter Protection
To protect strawberries against winter
injury, a layer of mulch is recommended. If plants are unprotected,
low winter temperatures may kill the fruit buds and damage the roots
and crowns. Alternate freezing and thawing conditions in the spring
cause heaving of the plants. Mulch should be applied before the
temperature drops below 20oF (-6oC). Once the temperature drops
below 15oF (-10oC), damage to the plants begins. However, if the
mulch is applied too early before the plant growth stops the crowns
may rot.
Clean hay or straw make the best mulching material.
Do not use tree leaves, as they mat down and smother the plants. A 3
to 4-inch layer of mulch is sufficient.
Leave winter mulch in
place until plants show signs of growth in the spring. No harm will
result even if many of the plants show one or two small yellow new
center leaves. Delayed mulch removal prevents most heaving and may
also delay early blooming which may be damaged by spring frosts.
Remove just enough of the mulch so that the plants can come through.
Pests
Common to Strawberry
Plants
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Aphids
cause strawberry yield losses due to honeydew production.
Honeydew deposits on fruit cause sooty molds to develop.
White skins shed by aphid nymphs stick to the berry which
renders the fruit unpalatable.
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Birds Birds love berries, enough said !
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Corn Earworm
causes damage to strawberries by burrowing into the berry. Only
larvae of the first generation attacks winter strawberries.
Entrance holes made by early larvae aren't visible, and the
fruit must be cut to determine their presence. Larvae typically
feed in the air pocket at the strawberries center. Mature
strawberries containing larger larvae appear seedy and develop a
shrunken surface with brown patches
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Bacillus Thuringiensis
is recommended for use by organic gardeners.
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Sprays/Pesticides must be applied in the pre-bloom stage to
prevent injury. Pesticides such as
Rotenone
that are more effective in cool than warm weather will work
more efficiently earlier in the season.
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Strawberry Root Weevil
feeds on the roots of strawberry plants and can completely
devour small rootlets and destroy the bark and cortex of larger
roots. Soon after feeding begins, plants wilt
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Spider Mites
retard the growth of strawberry plants which can result In plant
death. Most severe losses have resulted from outbreaks starting
in late fall or winter. In the spring, mites increase rapidly
and do the greatest damage during or after the blooming period.
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See
Pest Control for more extensive data
See
Also :
University of Kentucky Entomology -STRAWBERRY PESTS
Major and Minor Pests of Strawberries
Common
Diseases and Pathogens affecting Strawberries
Most Strawberry problems are fungal in nature, and caused by
soil born pathogens, a sufficient ground cover of straw or well
rotted mulch will help to minimize many diseases as the spores will
bounce and spread further off soil and water than they will off
straw.
Red Steele
Root Rot
Red steele, or red core, is
a serious disease of
strawberry. In areas with cool, moist soil conditions, especially
soils heavy in clay that are saturated with water during cool
weather, the disease is more prevalent.
If Plants begin wilting and dying off
in the lower portions , the cause is very likely to be
red stele. Infected plants are stunted, lose their
healthy green luster, and produce very few runners.
Young leaves often have a metallic, bluish-green
discoloration. Older leaves turn prematurely yellow or
red. Diseased plants wilt rapidly and die at the first
signs of summer heat. Diseased plants have very few new
roots, when compared with the roots of healthy plants
that have thick and bushy roots with many secondary
feeding roots. Infected strawberry roots usually appear
gray, while the new roots of a healthy plant are
yellowish-white.
See Also:
Stele Root Rot of Strawberry Ohio State University
Extension Fact Sheet Red
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Leather rot
It is caused by a soil inhabiting fungus,
[Phytophthora cactorum] and occurs on a wide
variety of plants.. The fungus attacks berries in the
field at all stages of development. Fruit rot occurs
when the berries come in contact with the soil. The
pathogen may also cause a serious crown rot, which may
develop along with the fruit rot.
Mulching, which keeps the fruit off the
ground and aids in minimizing rain splash, will help
control leather rot.
See Also:
Leather Rot of Strawberry Ohio State University
Extension Fact Sheet
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Strawberry leaf blight [Image
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Strawberry leaf blight causes a rot at
the stem end of the fruit. Caused by a fungus which
overwinters in plant debris on the ground. In early to
mid-April, at about the time buds emerge from the crown,
the fungus attacks the new leaves and causes the primary
infection. Later, when fruit has formed, the green fruit
cap becomes infected and urns brown. If uncontrolled, a
considerable number of fruits may be rotted by harvest
time.
See Also :
Integrated Pest Management Strawberry Leaf Diseases
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Anthracnose [Image] The anthracnose fungus
causes dark brown, oval sunken areas or spots on stems. It also
causes the crown to rot, which may cause young leaves to wilt. The
fungus can be carried on apparently healthy plants. Therefore, you
should be sure to use healthy certified plants for transplanting.
Anthracnose is favored by hot, humid weather as the
fruits develop .If
you avoid excess moisture during the summer, you will help decrease
the severity of this disease. You can also cover the ground
around your berry crop with a dry mulch or straw, as the
spores will bounce and spread further off soil and water
than they will off straw.
Anthracnose cannot be adequately
controlled through the use of
fungicide .
Potassium Bicarbonate can help to control outbreaks ,
Bonide Remedy Fungicide ,
which contains Potassium Bicarbonate is useful for this
purpose. For large fields try
Bonide Lime Sulfer Spray
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Powdery Mildew
The fungus that cause Powdery Mildew [Sphaerotheca
macularis if anyone cares], appears as a grayish-white
coating on the undersides of leaves Leaf function
is impaired but symptoms develop so late in the season
that berry production is seldom affected.
Bonide Remedy Fungicide
is effective against Powdery Mildew.
See Also:
University of California: Strawberry -Powdery Mildew
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Botrytis Fruit rot [Also
known as Gray mold -
Image]
caused by spores produced on dead
strawberry foliage . The fungus invades young strawberry
leaves without producing any initial symptoms. As the
leaf matures, the pathogen spreads quickly through the
dying tissue . Spores are dispersed by air, water or
harvesting and ultimately infect all parts of the plant.
Bonide Remedy Fungicide
is effective against against Botrytis Fruit rot.
See Also :
Botrytis Fruit rot Ohio State University Extension Fact
Sheet
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Verticillium wilt
When a strawberry plant is severely
infected with Verticillium wilt fungus, the chances of
it surviving to produce a crop is slim. The Verticillium
fungus infects hundreds of various host plants. The
fungus can survive in soil, and, once it becomes
established in a field or garden, it may remain alive
for decades. Cool, overcast weather
interspersed with warm, bright days is most favorable
for development of Verticillium wilt. Infection and
disease development may occur when soil temperature is
from 70 to 75 degrees F .
See Also :
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