Strawberry VarietiesTroubleshooting StrawberriesStrawberries from SeedPruning StrawberriesBlue StrawberriesGiant StrawberriesPine BerriesPotted StrawberriesStrawberry Compatible Plants
Preserving Strawberries Strawberry Recipes
Preserving StrawberriesStrawberry Jam Recipes Strawberry Dessert RecipesStrawberry Ice CreamStrawberry Hibiscus WineSpiced StrawberriesPickled StrawberriesChocolate Strawberries
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Giant Strawberries, Fragaria ananassa L. Maximus sometimes called Pineapple Strawberries should not to be confused with another unusual strawberry cultivar the pineberry.
Producers tout the pineapple Strawberry as easy to grow, some claims state they are as big as apples or peaches.
The average berry , once the plant is producing full swing is about the size of an egg, larger berries will sometimes reach the size an apple or peach but don't anticipate too many that big. Egg sized is still a pretty impressive Strawberry.
There are several variations. The June Bearing variety will produce the largest fruits but slightly smaller overall yield so far as volume / quantity is concerned, these are the ones you are likely to get humongous apple sized strawberries from.
Everbearing varieties will yield 2 and sometimes 3 harvests per season in larger fields, in small plots more common to backyard gardens they can generally be harvested continuously throughout the season. Day Neutral varieties produce the smallest strawberries, but produces them consistently year long.
So far as being easy to grow, 'easy' is a relative term. Like most strawberries they need a lot of Tender Loving Care especially when starting from seed. The success ratio / germination rate is lower than many other plants. Anticipate that only about 30 -40 % of the seeds you plant will survive to full maturity.
The seeds also need to experience a dormant period before they will germinate. 2 -3 weeks of freezing temperatures are necessary. To break the dormancy the seeds need temperatures between 40 and 60 degrees F. A simulated dormancy is easy. Mix your strawberry seeds with peat and sand about a 50-50 blend and store it in a refrigerator for a few weeks. A few days before planting, or even a week or so break the dormancy by placing them in a warm location - preferably in the ballpark of 60 F.
Once the seeds begin to grow, the roots will emerge first followed by shoots which bear the first true leaves. Strawberry seeds take a very long time to germinate give them up to 2 months to germinate. After 2 months maximum, if there is no observable development, the seed case is unbroken and no roots have emerged consider that particular seed a failed germination.
Once a seed has sprouted 2 full 'true' leaves, then you will be able to transplant them.
You should also keep in mind that these are hybrids that do not always produce true to variety. and sometimes do not produce at all. On occasion they will revert to their lineage and you could get simple standard sized fruits.
The best way to bypass the hassle of germination and sprouting plants is to purchase established plants instead of seeds. By starting from established plants you will get a reliable genetic consistency. Dormant potted plants are sometimes available as is bare root stock. If you already have at least one established plant or have access to some they can also be propagated from cuttings.
Strawberries should be planted in the early spring as soon as the soil is workable. Some Gardeners plant in September or Late Autumn in anticipation of the next season - this will work also dependent on the variety you are using. Strawberries do best in drained fairly rich soil, so be sure to add compost or other organic matter when preparing the strawberry patch.