I. Fill your containers with your sterile soil, leave roughly 1/2 of head space at the containers top. The soil should be firmed down but not overly compacted.
II. Moisten the soil, do not saturate it just moisten it.
III. Place up to 3 seeds in each container on the soils surface. Anticipate that some seeds will not germinate, also be aware that you may need to thin out weaker specimens later on. Cover the seeds with roughly 1/4" of potting soil - so you should still have 1/4 inch head space in your containers.
IV. Water lightly once the seeds have bee sown to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. Once again do not saturate the soil just dampen it.
V. Place the pots in a warm location, some people use heat mats which are helpful in some situations but not absolutely necessary.
VI. Keep the soil uniformly and persistently moist. Using a mister is a nifty idea as other methods can displace soil and seeds. I like to put plastic wrap over the pot tops to retain moisture.
VII. As soon as sprouts emerge remove any covering and place the pots under grow lights or in a sunny window.
VIII. If using a sunny window, the pots should be rotated on a regular basis in order to produce an upright plant rather than a lopsided one that grows into the sunlight. Grow lights should be adjusted to the appropriate heights and adjusted as the plants grow.
IX. Continue to keep the soil moistened until transplant day. hardening the seedlings a tad before transplanting is also a good idea. [See: Hardening Off Seedlings]. You also might want to consider leaving a fan blowing on the seedlings for at least several hours daily. Good air circulation reduces disease issues and acclimates the plants to the outdoor environment.
See Part Two: Seedlings and Transplants